This page shows the detailed build of my
5 ft. x 8 ft. to 5 x 13 Single Axle Galvalume Stirling Kit Trailer Build
I started this build to see if I could produce a Streamline and Light Mini Trailer under 1000 lbs. The goal was to have a self contained trailer that used NO Propane, or plug in 110vac from any source. The Trailer will have 400 Watts of Solar with a 3000 watt inverter for 110 vac and 12vdc for items that need that voltage. It will also have a Water heater that will have 3 modes of heating. Solar, Electric and Fire. See the photos with information on the build. Heater will have a Mini Catalytic Wood Stove, and for the beds an 12vdc electric blanket for 2 beds.
There will be a Video tour of the Trail when finished at the end.
The trailer Kit was purchased from Tractor Supply. The maker is outa Canada, Ohhh Canada. The kit is a lightweight Galvanized U Channel kit that was very easy to put together. I called the maker and ordered 4 extra side rails and 2 extra main support beams.
I added the 2 Extra U channel ares to the Front of the trailer to create a a more streamline aerodynamics and give me a few extra sq feet inside.
I spliced into the frame to add the arms and bolted them in place.
I used a Plasma Cutter to cut a “C” Groove to slide the C arm thru for the Back of the Trailer Aerodynamics.
Back end had to have good support as it was going to be the Bathroom and Shower section. But I could not have to much weight in the back as its needed up front to keep the tires of the Truck down.
Back end done, and added Wiring and Lights.
I used only 2 x 4×8 x1/2 CDX for the flooring and used the cut sections to add to the sides. I reinforced the bottom sides with backers. The Floor was bolted down the frame which made it a solid structure.
The top outer frame for the main support was made with 2×2 and under the frame I bolted and welded the C channels for strength.
Added a Rear Trailer Wheel that helps protect the end if you hit the road while going up a driveway. Started the build of the walls.
Once main framework is semi completed, I started on the Shower Floor and Drain area. By using the FLEX-ALL in White you can paint 1 layer and let dry for a day, then paint another layer and your done. I will add Shower wall plastic later.
If your interested in how I made the 2″ x 2″ boards, I cut a 2×4 right down the middle on my table saw, then planed them smooth.
Now comes the Insullation Foam. Used a 1-1/2 Foam board with one side foil facing in. Then Siliconed all sections to frame so they would not move and also keep air tight. Super Lite still and can move trailer with hands !!
Bathroom LED strips I made with Aluminum bar and wired to 12vdc. I siliconed the strips to make Waterproof. Next Started on the Kitchen area after all Electrical was wired in.
Next it was time to add the 16 Gallon Water Tank. Always test the tank first to check for leaks by filling it. Next make sure the tank can be removed or replaced so the framework had to be built for that. Next aligning the pump to match the tank outlet.
Next we have to install the 10 Gl Water Heater Tank under the Kitchen Top above the Water Storage Tank. You MUST Insulate the tank to keep the heat in and since this was going to be Solar, Elect and Fire heated we want to keep as much heat in as possible.
To keep the tank from blowing up, you must add the Thermal switch, this one is set for 130 degrees shut off, this way if the Solar water is over that temp, then the pump shuts off. Next install and secure the tank. Add plumbing and continue !
Tank in, notice the Fire venting, we will make a mini Rocket Stove to add Wood, and vent it out the side of the Trailer. Cold Blue, Hot Red for plumbing, we run the lines only to the Kitchen sink and the Shower. The SOLAR water will come in from the Roof and be switched on by a separate Temp Switch that will recirculate the hot water through the main Water heater tank once the water temp reaches 130 degrees.
Lets start on some Countertops and Cabinets while we wait for plumbing parts to come in. Countertop was made from old pallet wood and run thru the planner. Next I used a tourch to burn the wood to add style, then some Food Coloring and water to blend in some Hippie colors. Let dray and sealed wtih poly-your-insaine. Ha !
Now let the countertop dry and lets work on the the Rocket Stove Heating. First lets weld up the 2.5″ pipe that will act as the Rocket Stove fire to heat the Water Tank. I ran the pipe up the hidden wall and the smoke will exit the side of the Trailer wall. Don’t worry I will add heat shield insulator later.
Now for some Old Fashion Wood Paneling for the bathroom entrance walls.
Starting on the front wall where the TV and shelves will go. Finished plumbing have to now test for leaks after filling watertank.
After the shelving the was finished, we start on the outer Aluminum skin. Used Rolled 24 x 50′ trim coil. But first we cover the outer trailer with a skin of Vinal to act as a vapor barior to help keep water and heat out.
Now for the Table and Support Legs. The Table converts down into the Bed Support. U sed simple wood stained to a yummy red oak and varnished smooth.
Next the Sterio and Power Swich panels goes in, notice the Spirit Orbs in the picture uuuuuuuuu !
Filled the watertank and gave it a pressure test to see if any leaks . . . .. . Hurray NO LEAKS, PEX pipe GOOOOOOD ! Water comes out of sink and shower perfectly !
Painted the Solar water Frame outside White, will paint pipe and inside frame Black when I get to it. Also added Radio Antenna that folds down. Next Started to finish the Aluminum Skin on both sides of the Trailer.
Finishing up the top half of the Aluminum flashing I needed to find a way to CAP the top as it you say to keep the water from getting in between the metal and the trailer wall. So I devised a way to roll over the top 1″ of the metal and create a tight fit to the roof, then sealed it with the Flex Seal.
Back to the Solar Water Heater, I painted the Pex with Black Flex Seal and opened the Valve to the pipe to let the water in. I waited 30 min and opened the Drain valve and the water was at 180 degrees. Now I added the Sensor to tell the pump when to open and close to fill that hot water into the Hot Water Tank. The tank can only go to 140 -150 degrees before blowing the cap so I will set the Solar pump to turn on at 125 degrees. I will only turn the pump on when needed. Added supports for the LEXAN to keep from forming a Bowl if raining. Next added the Clamps to keep the plastic secure. Had extra show wall material so made a White Cover that can be slid off and on to cover the solar when not in use.
Now its time for a Range Hood to capture the Smoke while cooking. I used the same Flashing for the siding and cut a paper template to fit under the Cabinet. Next cut it out and bent the metal. Next used small rivets to hold side end cab and viola we be done.
Some LED under Lighting and we done b done with the Hood !
Quick metal bend for a support light, add some leds, Wood frame and violin ! I mean Viola a Kitchen overhead light.
Aluminum angle, some LED strips, and independent lighting for left and right for main ceiling lights. Made Frame outa the Angle Molding, hot glued in some sparkle plastic and instant overhead lighting !
Finishing up the ceiling strips and pantry or storage area.
For powering the SURVIVAL BEAST we have 400 Watts of Solar panels going to a EPever Charge Controller, then to a 3000 Watt 110VAC inverter. The Battery is a 12v 100 AH Solar battery, by the way the same system powered my barn to build the whole trailer and only had 200 Watts of Solar panels ! To run the LED Lights, blankets, Stereo and Booster, I have installed a 2 x 12v 8 amp Regulators to keep everything at a constant 12vdc. The Inverter once ON can power the Induction Stove and Mini Refrigerator which also runs off 12vdc.
The Top shows the Control panels to turn off or on each power system and keep track of voltage, amps and watts used. Next is a test of all the lights ON in the Trailer at night, LOOKS GREAT !
Now to finish the Front and back Ends caps. First we have to bend some metal for a Aerodynamic front and end. Add some silly cone before capping them and wall-ah ! Slick ends.
Now to start on the Door Frame, I use a Z Channel Aluminum as the door must come tight agenst the frame to keep cold and heat out.
Get’n tired of covering the ride with tarps when it rains so its time to install the windows. They had rounded corners so I had to cut wood curves to fill the gaps, then cut metal to cover them. On the inside I framed the windows with the molding and they came out Sweeeeeeet !
Now its time for the Door Frame and Door. I used Aluminum “Z Channel” so the door will have a Stop frame to hit. I cut the 45 Degree angle for the top and sides. Screwed them in and added the Hinges, had to cut a bit off to make hing fit in the 1″ frame. I will stop here and wait for 3rd hinges to come in before building the door. Building the Door is the hardest part of the whole build as it has to be flat and straight and fit exactly in the frame. I glued it square in clamps then added the foam insulation, then a layer of vinyl to keep heat and moisture out. The comes the Aluminum outer covering. I stapled and screwed it all in and hammered the edges. Added Silicone Strip Insulation to the edges, then started to cut slot for the Door Latch to catch. Had to drill small holes and dremel out the square to make a clean tight catch.
Next we add a frame edge around the Window then add a Door Spring to stop it from flying open !
Why pay for some cheep Chinese Door Awning when you can make it yourself !
Now to remove the Upside-down Axle on the old Leaf Spring and add a 2K Leaf and correct the Upside-down mistake. Easy way to remove an axle is to remove the front hinge bold and let the spring drop down, then you can slide the back outa the slot. Next remove the U Clamps and plate and add the new Springs with stronger tension. Install the reverse way you took off added the new 175-80-13 tires for greater height and width and we be done, just hope the weight of the trailer does not exceed the 2200lbs axle !!! Put on Larger Tires and rims, and added Plastic fenders to keep weight down.
Back to the Water Heater, Time to complete the Rocket stove to heat water in winter as Solar is out of the question. We can also turn on the 300Watt Electrode to heat the water which take 30-50 mins. First I plasma cut out a hold to hold the wood feed port. Then I weld it in place. Next I have to add the Ash Door cover and add a heat barrier.
Now to finish the Dish and Cup cabinet and Utensil wall and Spice rack. Added Towel holder under counter.
The solar panels can now Swing both to the front and back to catch the Sun.
Now for a maiden test drive to see how she handles.
Time to add a Towel storage area and Medicine cabinet to the bathroom. Simple Turn Handle Locks to keep the doors shut.
THE BEST IS YET TO COME !